Eli5 volts amps
cujo
2014.03.19 21:22 oheysup cujo
The Cujo Compendium, a place for all current or future Cujo owners to discuss all matters regarding the device.
2011.07.28 17:21 bossgalaga Explain Like I'm Five Don't Panic!
Explain Like I'm Five is the best forum and archive on the internet for layperson-friendly explanations. Don't Panic!
2023.05.28 05:54 Defiant_Speaker_1451 Couldn't understand the solution
submitted by Defiant_Speaker_1451 to askmath [link] [comments]
2023.05.28 04:18 RoseGardener2006 Help for solar pond pump.
Please help me with a solar power station for a small outdoor pond
I am trying to add circulation and UV sterilization to a small pond with no immediate power outlets. I understand the pump etc will stop at night, with sun is down. But where I live, we have at least 10 hours of sun even in winter.
The small pump that I want to use is rated at 110v 60W; the UV light 110V 13W; together they need 0.66 amp and 73 watts. But both being 110v, I guess I need an inverter to up the volts from the panel?
Or i can use a DC pump like this one.p
Any suggestion on the panel, and other hardwares? In case I want to add a battery, what should I use?
Total novice, appreciate all inputs.
submitted by RoseGardener2006 to SolarDIY [link] [comments]
I am trying to add circulation and UV sterilization to a small pond with no immediate power outlets. I understand the pump etc will stop at night, with sun is down. But where I live, we have at least 10 hours of sun even in winter.
The small pump that I want to use is rated at 110v 60W; the UV light 110V 13W; together they need 0.66 amp and 73 watts. But both being 110v, I guess I need an inverter to up the volts from the panel?
Or i can use a DC pump like this one.p
Any suggestion on the panel, and other hardwares? In case I want to add a battery, what should I use?
Total novice, appreciate all inputs.
2023.05.28 03:44 memagitastic How many volts can you feel?
I have been wondering, can you have electricity that is visible but it’s so little that you can’t feel it?, and if you know the number of Volts, Watts, Amps or whatever it is, can you tell me how to get that much electricity and not more?
Thanks
submitted by memagitastic to TooAfraidToAsk [link] [comments]
Thanks
2023.05.28 03:29 SolidSauce1117 Bought a house and never owned a home.
 | See the pictures. I don’t know what to do with the pump, or which way to put them. Or what to do with the salt water thing on the mall. It’s salt water and pumping, put shock in it. submitted by SolidSauce1117 to pools [link] [comments] |
2023.05.28 02:50 LoveBigButtSluts Come On, Build My Dream Bike for Me!! XD
Been scouring most all the PEV forums these past two years and it's clear that no market is like me, which is why no one builds stuff I need: Heavy-set power user who needs comfort, torque, and range -- never mind affordability...so it's DIY, then!
What components would you recommend, please, to satisfy the following:
0) Geometry: Mostly if not wholly upright position;
1) Suspension: Dual/full, adjustable, hydraulic or even better, air;
2) Brakes: Regenerative four-piston hydraulic, large-diameter rotors;
3) Engine: At least 1,000 watts, the more the better but must generate 190nm, unsure whether mid-drive or hub is best (in case of the latter, AWD/dual-hub options preferred);
4) Drive-train: Must complement engine of course so for example not too weak for the power, unsure whether to go Rohloff or some other internal gear hub, interested also in carbon belt if practical;
5) Batteries: Simultaneous dual installation for power and range so lotsa volts/amps and of course UL listed/certified;
6) Unnecessary but Nice: Should accommodate "full" front and rear mud guards (not cool but skimpy minimalist designs), front basket and rear rack, kickstand, chain-guard, large color LCD, mirrors, super-bright head lamp and rear and even side lights/turn signals. Plus everything waterproof or water-resistant!
Any such beast? Is such a chimaera or unicorn possible with off-the-shelf offerings today??
Your kind advice is very much appreciated!!!
submitted by LoveBigButtSluts to ebike [link] [comments]
What components would you recommend, please, to satisfy the following:
0) Geometry: Mostly if not wholly upright position;
1) Suspension: Dual/full, adjustable, hydraulic or even better, air;
2) Brakes: Regenerative four-piston hydraulic, large-diameter rotors;
3) Engine: At least 1,000 watts, the more the better but must generate 190nm, unsure whether mid-drive or hub is best (in case of the latter, AWD/dual-hub options preferred);
4) Drive-train: Must complement engine of course so for example not too weak for the power, unsure whether to go Rohloff or some other internal gear hub, interested also in carbon belt if practical;
5) Batteries: Simultaneous dual installation for power and range so lotsa volts/amps and of course UL listed/certified;
6) Unnecessary but Nice: Should accommodate "full" front and rear mud guards (not cool but skimpy minimalist designs), front basket and rear rack, kickstand, chain-guard, large color LCD, mirrors, super-bright head lamp and rear and even side lights/turn signals. Plus everything waterproof or water-resistant!
Any such beast? Is such a chimaera or unicorn possible with off-the-shelf offerings today??
Your kind advice is very much appreciated!!!
2023.05.28 01:59 RoseGardener2006 Please help me with a solar power station for a small outdoor pond
I am trying to add circulation and UV sterilization to a small pond with no immediate power outlets. I understand the pump etc will stop at night, with sun is down. But where I live, we have at least 10 hours of sun even in winter. The small pump that I want to use is rated at 110v 60W; the UV light 110V 13W; together they need 0.66 amp and 73 watts. But both being 110v, I guess I need an inverter to up the volts from the panel?
Any suggestion on the panel, and other hardwares? In case I want to add a battery, what should I use?
Total novice, appreciate all inputs.
submitted by RoseGardener2006 to solar [link] [comments]
Any suggestion on the panel, and other hardwares? In case I want to add a battery, what should I use?
Total novice, appreciate all inputs.
2023.05.28 01:28 Agent_129 Fire pump
Diesel driven fire pump threw a connecting rod through the block, pump out of service. Today getting quotes and prices for replacement i can acquire equivalent to new standard diesel driven pump but customer wants to go electric. Question here is I can get electric driven pump but how do I know if diesel driven generator creates enough amps and volts to power it and emergency appliances in the building?
submitted by Agent_129 to ElectricalEngineering [link] [comments]
2023.05.28 00:58 colovion Garage door opener outlet problem
I’m installing a garage door opener in my garage (1/2 horse power, not a big unit.) There are two sets of outlets (3-way switches on both). One is in the perfect place for the garage door opener, the other is 9 feet too far away for the cord. Guess which set is grounded and which is not? Yup. The one right where I need it has an open ground. So I’m going to have to use an extension cord for a bit but, how hard is it to ground an outlet in a garage? The roof is plywood. The outlets are those round junction boxes attached to the plywood (wires hidden above the plywood.) There’s a sub panel in the garage for the outlets, so it shouldn’t be crazy expensive to fix it, right?
I already spent $3800+ to get my main panel upgraded to 200 amps and a 60 amp/240 volt line run from that main panel in my basement to the garage for a Tesla Wall Connector, they upgraded my meter and put in new grounding rods for the main panel at that time. Hence why I want the garage door opener, I gotta park one the garage to charge and manually opening/closing the door multiple times a day is growing old.
So I have new, up to code grounding rods… off the main panel. Not the sub panel (garage is on the opposite side of the house from the meter.) Big problem or easier fix than I think?
submitted by colovion to askanelectrician [link] [comments]
I already spent $3800+ to get my main panel upgraded to 200 amps and a 60 amp/240 volt line run from that main panel in my basement to the garage for a Tesla Wall Connector, they upgraded my meter and put in new grounding rods for the main panel at that time. Hence why I want the garage door opener, I gotta park one the garage to charge and manually opening/closing the door multiple times a day is growing old.
So I have new, up to code grounding rods… off the main panel. Not the sub panel (garage is on the opposite side of the house from the meter.) Big problem or easier fix than I think?
2023.05.28 00:08 iCopyright2017 Electrolysis on an entire trailer
I'm thinking of putting together a massive electrolysis project for large parts the first of which is an old 7' x 14' trailer. The trailer is made of c channel and angle iron for the frame and galvanized fencing as the deck and already has all accessories and wheels and suspension removed.
My idea is to use a large Harbor Freight tarp and make a basin using some 2x4s to bring the tarp about 8 in above ground and then I can set the trailer inside on some wooden blocks using a forklift. I can then fill the whole thing with water and washing soda. I have tons of scrap metal I can use as the anode. As far as a power supply I have a DC welder capable of over 300 amps and I can easily hit 160 amps continuous all night long. It outputs 78 volts DC.
There are still some variables I need to figure out which is why I'm posting here.
1) if I know the volume of my "tank" how do I calculate how much washing soda I need? I see lots of info online but it varies everywhere.
2) How do I calculate my optimum amperage? I can adjust anywhere from 20 to 300. The voltage is fixed at 78.
3) Since part of the trailer (cathode) is already galvanized what will happen to that zinc? Will it travel to the anode?
4) once I'm done where can I get a giant chunk of zinc so I can electroplate the whole thing? Does the polarity reverse?
submitted by iCopyright2017 to chemistry [link] [comments]
My idea is to use a large Harbor Freight tarp and make a basin using some 2x4s to bring the tarp about 8 in above ground and then I can set the trailer inside on some wooden blocks using a forklift. I can then fill the whole thing with water and washing soda. I have tons of scrap metal I can use as the anode. As far as a power supply I have a DC welder capable of over 300 amps and I can easily hit 160 amps continuous all night long. It outputs 78 volts DC.
There are still some variables I need to figure out which is why I'm posting here.
1) if I know the volume of my "tank" how do I calculate how much washing soda I need? I see lots of info online but it varies everywhere.
2) How do I calculate my optimum amperage? I can adjust anywhere from 20 to 300. The voltage is fixed at 78.
3) Since part of the trailer (cathode) is already galvanized what will happen to that zinc? Will it travel to the anode?
4) once I'm done where can I get a giant chunk of zinc so I can electroplate the whole thing? Does the polarity reverse?
2023.05.27 21:17 BossasaurusX Not sure if this is the right place, but having an issue with my pentair jhe-63hl pump that feeds my sprinklers. Slight whirring noise, and a single click after about 5-10 seconds of not functioning properly
 | submitted by BossasaurusX to Plumbing [link] [comments] |
2023.05.27 19:58 jep004 20 Amp charge?
Hi everyone,
I have a 2019 Volt Premier and have a question about charging. I had a couple quotes for 240 level 2 charger install and they were 3,000 & 3,500 Canadian $. Not worth it since my wife and I commute less than 20 miles each for work. The electrician said he could run a 20 amp line much cheaper.
Does anyone charge off a 20 amp with the 7.2 battery charger, if so what is the charge time?
submitted by jep004 to volt [link] [comments]
I have a 2019 Volt Premier and have a question about charging. I had a couple quotes for 240 level 2 charger install and they were 3,000 & 3,500 Canadian $. Not worth it since my wife and I commute less than 20 miles each for work. The electrician said he could run a 20 amp line much cheaper.
Does anyone charge off a 20 amp with the 7.2 battery charger, if so what is the charge time?
2023.05.27 19:43 2Naughtyy Audio interface - Universal Audio Volt or Focusrite Scarlett?
I’m trying decide between these 2 interface’s for connecting my studio monitors and headphones into. The UA Volt 1 has a independent headphones knob which is a bonus, nd both Volt 1 nd Scarlett Solo has their unique difference between Air nd Vintage modes for the mics.
But from research from other people who tested out both interfaces, a few hav found out that the Scarlett 2i2 has better sound quality than the solo, even tho on paper the specs are stated to be the same as the Solo version. Is this the same with the Volt 1 nd Volt 2, with the Volt 2 havin better sound quality? Is it sumthin to do with that the 2i2 nd Volt 2 has 2 pre amps?
Jus tryin to make my mind up on which 1 to get out of the 4. If any1 has tried out both of these, please let me kno.
Also cami just by a usb c to usb c cable nd use that to connect to my M1 MacBook? Or does it hav to be the specific cable that comes with the interface? I’m not sure if this will affect the speed of the connection to the MacBook or not.
Any insight or info would be appreciated
submitted by 2Naughtyy to musicproduction [link] [comments]
But from research from other people who tested out both interfaces, a few hav found out that the Scarlett 2i2 has better sound quality than the solo, even tho on paper the specs are stated to be the same as the Solo version. Is this the same with the Volt 1 nd Volt 2, with the Volt 2 havin better sound quality? Is it sumthin to do with that the 2i2 nd Volt 2 has 2 pre amps?
Jus tryin to make my mind up on which 1 to get out of the 4. If any1 has tried out both of these, please let me kno.
Also cami just by a usb c to usb c cable nd use that to connect to my M1 MacBook? Or does it hav to be the specific cable that comes with the interface? I’m not sure if this will affect the speed of the connection to the MacBook or not.
Any insight or info would be appreciated
2023.05.27 18:48 2Naughtyy Audio interface - Universal Audio Volt or Focusrite Scarlett?
I only need the interface for connecting my studio monitors and headphones into. The UA Volt 1 has a independent headphones knob which is a bonus, nd both Volt 1 nd Scarlett Solo has their unique difference between Air nd Vintage modes for the mics.
But from research from other people who tested out both interfaces, a few hav found out that the Scarlett 2i2 has better sound quality than the solo, even tho on paper the specs are stated to be the same as the Solo version. Is this the same with the Volt 1 nd Volt 2, with the Volt 2 havin better sound quality? Is it sumthin to do with that the 2i2 nd Volt 2 has 2 pre amps?
Jus tryin to make my mind up on which 1 to get out of the 4. If any1 has tried out both of these, please let me kno.
Also cami just by a usb c to usb c cable nd use that to connect to my M1 MacBook? Or does it hav to be the specific cable that comes with the interface? I’m not sure if this will affect the speed of the connection to the MacBook or not.
Any insight or info would be appreciated
submitted by 2Naughtyy to edmproduction [link] [comments]
But from research from other people who tested out both interfaces, a few hav found out that the Scarlett 2i2 has better sound quality than the solo, even tho on paper the specs are stated to be the same as the Solo version. Is this the same with the Volt 1 nd Volt 2, with the Volt 2 havin better sound quality? Is it sumthin to do with that the 2i2 nd Volt 2 has 2 pre amps?
Jus tryin to make my mind up on which 1 to get out of the 4. If any1 has tried out both of these, please let me kno.
Also cami just by a usb c to usb c cable nd use that to connect to my M1 MacBook? Or does it hav to be the specific cable that comes with the interface? I’m not sure if this will affect the speed of the connection to the MacBook or not.
Any insight or info would be appreciated
2023.05.27 18:11 WendyArmbuster Matching a brushed DC motor with a motor driver
I teach high school computer aided drafting, and in that class we design and 3D print soccer playing robots. Right now they're really just RC vehicles, like Battlebots, but I'm working on a curriculum to make them autonomous. This year we used this brushed 130 size motor which the datasheet says has an 18A stall current. I couldn't verify that because my multimeters and current-limiting power supply both only go up to 10A, but it does do at least 10A. We built our own motor driver boards using the Texas Instrument DRV8231 which have a maximum current of 3.7A. Our motors in our 3D printed gearboxes have a free run current of about .75A, but stay below 3.7A in normal operation. I allow full contact in the games though, so they push each other around, and during that they exceed 3.7A quite a bit, which makes the chip go into thermal protection.
Also a problem is that those motors are generally too powerful to easily control. Even though we have them geared way down they are just really twitchy when run slowly, and since our robots are controlled by controlling the speed of the left drive wheel and the right drive wheel (skid-steer but with a single wheel on each side) it's hard to get them to go straight and turn just the right amount.
Unfortunately, I can't find cheap 130 size motors with a stall current of greater than .8A and less than way too many amps. I need something in the 2A range. Furthermore, it's hard to find motors with carbon brushes, threaded face-mounting screw holes, and able to handle 2 cell LiPo battery voltage, which is around 7.4 volts. I mean, those FoamBlast motors are the bomb, and they're cheap too, but just so powerful. I'm considering adding a single axis gyroscope to the control board and have the microcontroller make automatic adjustments to the twitchy, overly-powerful motors, and upgrading the motor driver to the more powerful DRV8874, which has a 6A limit.
I know I'm supposed to run my brushed motors at half of their free run speed and half of their stall current for best results, but that means finding a new motor, and I'm having a hard time with that.
How do you match your brushed motor to your motor driver?
submitted by WendyArmbuster to MobileRobots [link] [comments]
Also a problem is that those motors are generally too powerful to easily control. Even though we have them geared way down they are just really twitchy when run slowly, and since our robots are controlled by controlling the speed of the left drive wheel and the right drive wheel (skid-steer but with a single wheel on each side) it's hard to get them to go straight and turn just the right amount.
Unfortunately, I can't find cheap 130 size motors with a stall current of greater than .8A and less than way too many amps. I need something in the 2A range. Furthermore, it's hard to find motors with carbon brushes, threaded face-mounting screw holes, and able to handle 2 cell LiPo battery voltage, which is around 7.4 volts. I mean, those FoamBlast motors are the bomb, and they're cheap too, but just so powerful. I'm considering adding a single axis gyroscope to the control board and have the microcontroller make automatic adjustments to the twitchy, overly-powerful motors, and upgrading the motor driver to the more powerful DRV8874, which has a 6A limit.
I know I'm supposed to run my brushed motors at half of their free run speed and half of their stall current for best results, but that means finding a new motor, and I'm having a hard time with that.
How do you match your brushed motor to your motor driver?
2023.05.27 16:12 ninjaswagster I need help figuring out a replacement pump, please
 | When I was in my garage yesterday I heard a faint hissing sound. Found out a small leak in my sprinkler pump. Called the guys who opened the system for the season and he looked at it and said there is a crack in the pump. He told me to buy the replacement and he would install it. The cracked unit is a 1 HP . I was told when they turned on the system that the pressure was a little low. I live in NJ and the sprinklers are run off of a well. submitted by ninjaswagster to Irrigation [link] [comments] I have zero clue what to look for as far as a replacement or if I need to determine any additional info prior to even looking. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I added a pic of my current unit. I'm just a gal looking for some guidance. Thanks in advance! |
2023.05.27 07:02 ApprehensiveCrab2036 Battery: sell, swap or....?
 | This is a 13 amp hour 48 volt upp unit pack power battery, that died a little prematurely. When I say died, it decided one day to only charge for about 20 minutes, then it would only run for a mile or two. submitted by ApprehensiveCrab2036 to ebikes [link] [comments] Id plug it in when I got home, and the charger would begin charging, but indicated it was fully charged within a half hour again ... And then it ran for about a mile before it said it was dead. I have since replaced the entire battery with upp's nearly identical, latest 48v/13ah model, so it's been sitting in a warm dry cupboard for a few months. I'm was considering doing a second easy build, of a lighter bike instead of my fat tire, which is what the 48 volt 13 amp hour battery was on (thousand watt front hub) I have a very light 26 inch giant that I think would run well with a 750 watt, 36 volt setup but I am leary of diving into the world of battery rebuilding. I've been a PC geek and a Motorhead for 30 years, and I understand the workings of one of these batteries but I don't have a spot welder much less a meter, and it does seem to take a bit of a knack and or talent if you will, from what I've seen, to do a successful rebuild. Especially trying to turn a 48 volt, into a 36 volt. But, if it's just the front cluster and or BMS that is bad (as I suspect, as do others that have helped me troubleshoot here on the e-bike subreddits) then I very well may have the right amount of cells to make a 48 v into a 36v right now. 🤔 Since the rest of this battery seems healthy, but would absolutely require the talent of someone who could rebuild, I was going to maybe sell it on eBay or...? I know that obviously a built and working battery brings a minimum of $300 and goes up from there. But I was wondering if it would be reasonable to think that I could somehow get 30 to $60 out of what is seen here in the pictures. It doesn't look like upp has anything more than a warehouse stateside, but Ive heard that there's companies that recondition/rebuild batteries... is there a battery company where I could get my 36v new battery for my new build, that would accept my battery remains in trade? Is this just a pipe dream? If so someone please puff puff pass because I'm not feeling it LOL (Maybe I should have left that joke for the pun subreddit)? recommendations on how to proceed? (Oh... it does have a mount in good condition with it. Just remembered that I didn't put that in). |
2023.05.27 04:08 buckeyes745 Is a 50 amp breaker and 6 gauge wire sufficient for my outlet? Totally new to this. Thanks!
 | submitted by buckeyes745 to Welding [link] [comments] |
2023.05.27 01:40 Opening_Farmer_2718 In reference to yesterday's quad reverb post
 | 155 j ul sticker with 100 watt label? submitted by Opening_Farmer_2718 to GuitarAmps [link] [comments] |
2023.05.27 00:39 BoltsBrigade HVAC Filter Location Question
 | I’ve got a Carrier (Model/Specs related info shown in images associated with this post) that I’ve got a few questions about related to filtering/filter location in general. submitted by BoltsBrigade to hvacadvice [link] [comments] I’m having problems with dust/debris getting past the filter and stopping at the evaporator coil. This seems to occur no matter how often I swap the filter. My questions are as follows: 1.) Can I run multiple filters with this particular setup/unit? I included an image of a simple drawing that hopefully makes sense… 2.) If I should only run one filter, what’s the ideal filteMERV rating for this specific unit? 3.) If one filter is best, would it be better to swap the filter location from below the evaporator coil to the location on the wall/install a return grille with capabilities to house a filter so it would catch debris earlier? Is it ok to not run a filter right below the coil? 4.) If I were able to run two filters, could I leave one under the coil and add a return grille that could house a filter and split the MERV rating between the two filters so there weren’t any airflow issues? Please forgive my lack of knowledge on HVAC, I’m happy to provide more info if needed. Thanks for any help in advance! |
2023.05.26 23:47 Ambitious_Power_1764 220 to 120
I put a 120volt window AC in my garage that is tripping my breaker.
There is a capped off ( receptacle was removed) 220 volt line in my garage that was there for a dryer that is no longer being used.
My plan is to move that line closer to the AC, install a 220 volt receptacle, then use the pictured cord to give me the option of 120 volt.
The reason I'm going this direction is my electrical skill level is low and I'm avoiding my breaker panel as much as possible.
My questions are:
1.) How do I know what gauge wire this current wire is in order to by more to extend it?
2.) Any recommendations on what kind of wire to buy, wire nuts to buy, and from where that will minimize the effort?
3.) I see a great deal of options for 220 volt receptacles. Is there one I can just buy without having to worry about causing a fire and that will serve my purposes?
4.) Any recommendations on which receptacle to buy and from where that will minimize effort?
5.) Will this extension cord (pictured) get the job done with serving the proper amount of electricity to the AC unit?
6.) What's the deal with the wire colors being black, red, and white?
Thanks
submitted by Ambitious_Power_1764 to AskElectricians [link] [comments]
There is a capped off ( receptacle was removed) 220 volt line in my garage that was there for a dryer that is no longer being used.
My plan is to move that line closer to the AC, install a 220 volt receptacle, then use the pictured cord to give me the option of 120 volt.
The reason I'm going this direction is my electrical skill level is low and I'm avoiding my breaker panel as much as possible.
My questions are:
1.) How do I know what gauge wire this current wire is in order to by more to extend it?
2.) Any recommendations on what kind of wire to buy, wire nuts to buy, and from where that will minimize the effort?
3.) I see a great deal of options for 220 volt receptacles. Is there one I can just buy without having to worry about causing a fire and that will serve my purposes?
4.) Any recommendations on which receptacle to buy and from where that will minimize effort?
5.) Will this extension cord (pictured) get the job done with serving the proper amount of electricity to the AC unit?
6.) What's the deal with the wire colors being black, red, and white?
Thanks
2023.05.26 23:25 Overlorde159 How to calculate current flow from a charged capacitor
Hello, For a school project I am designing a circuit that involves powering up a capacitor from a voltage source. I do this because I want to be able to draw at least 2 amps, and the 9 volt batteries I have cannot supply that, and the power supply I have can’t do it either (it’s quite cheap). My thought process was that if I pull from that charge from capacitor there should be enough in it to provide what I want.
However I was considering the circuit and it makes me wonder: how would one calculate the current draw between a single resistor and a charged capacitor? Thanks
submitted by Overlorde159 to AskElectronics [link] [comments]
However I was considering the circuit and it makes me wonder: how would one calculate the current draw between a single resistor and a charged capacitor? Thanks
2023.05.26 22:13 Kayakerguide How Many Amps in a 12 Volt Battery? (Calculation & Examples)
 | submitted by Kayakerguide to toolsweek [link] [comments] |